Alex Megos 9aFA in USA

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Alex Megos ha escalat la via més dura de New River Gorge. Ahir va aconseguir encadenar Super Pod, un projecte situat al sector Coliseum de Summersville Lake, West Virginia. Quan li vem preguntar sobre la dificultat, va dir que pensava que és 9a, li va semblar dificil.

La via va ser oberta l’any 1992 per Porter Jarrard. Porter va aconseguir encadenar la via fins la seva primera reunió, una via excellent i molt popular anomenada Pod i graduada de 8a.

Desprès d’escalar la primera part, et queden uns metres de boulder intens sobre una arenisca perfecte, sense reposos avans d’entrar al boulder. Desprès d’escalar Pod, entres directament a un boulder de 8a+ sobre preses petites i laterals.

Alex va aconseguir linkar tota la via al segon dia amb un total de 4 intents. Per Alex és una altre primera ascenció de 9a, però pel New River Gorge és la via més dura i significant. Avans d’aquesta la via més dura era un 8c.

Avans d’encadenar Super Pod, Alex ha estat uns dies escalfant motors i acostumant-se a la zona escalant moltes vies clàssiques del sector i les mes dures. El llistat inclou en 5 dies que ha estat fins al moment la via més dura del sector i el flash més  difícil que s’ha fet mai a la zona.

Super Pod (5.14d), Trebuchet (5.14b) flash, Picket Fence (5.14b) second try, Into the Sarlacc (5.14b) second try, Still Life (5.14b) second try, Proper Soul (5.14a) flash, Lord Voldemort (5.14a) first try—a variation finish of Proper Soul, Prohibition (5.14a) second try, Mono Loco (5.14a), Freedom Tree (5.13d) onsight i molts 5.13’s incloent a vista  The Racist (5.13b) i Quinsana Plus (5.13a).

Alex està al New River amb un grup d’escaladors alemans molt forts incloent Felix Neumarker i Dicki Korb, Roger Schäli de Suissa, i el fotògraf Frank Kretschmann. Encara li queden 2 setmanes de viatge…aixi que esperem més notícies d’aquests grans escaladors.

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Super Pod 9a finishes at the top of the wall.

Visiting German Alex Megos has claimed the first ascent of the New River Gorge region’s hardest route. Yesterday, he sent the Super Pod project in the Coliseum at Summersville Lake, West Virginia. When asked about the difficulty, he said, “I think it’s 9a (5.14d); it felt pretty hard.”

The route was equipped way back in 1992 by prolific New River route developer Porter Jarrard. Porter was able to send the route to the first anchor which became the popular and excellent route Pod (5.13b). Beyond the Pod anchor is another 15 feet of intense bouldering through perfect white sandstone tiers, and there is no rest before heading into it. Directly above the Pod anchor is a powerful V12 boulder problem on small side pulls and edges.

Alex was able to link the full route on his second day trying it after a total of four tries. For Megos, it’s just another 5.14d first ascent, but for the New River Gorge it marks the region’s hardest route, and one of monumental significance. Prior to this ascent the hardest routes were 5.14b.

Before completing the Super Pod project, Alex spent a few days warming up to the area by climbing many of the hardest established routes. His tick list, after just five climbing days, already includes the first ascent of the hardest route and the hardest flash ascent in New River history.

Super Pod (5.14d), Trebuchet (5.14b) flash, Picket Fence (5.14b) second try, Into the Sarlacc (5.14b) second try, Still Life (5.14b) second try, Proper Soul (5.14a) flash, Lord Voldemort (5.14a) first try—a variation finish of Proper Soul, Prohibition (5.14a) second try, Mono Loco (5.14a), Freedom Tree (5.13d) onsight and numerous 5.13’s including  onsights of  The Racist (5.13b) i Quinsana Plus (5.13a).

Alex is visiting the New with a crew of strong climbers including Germans Felix Neumarker and Dicki Korb, Roger Schäli from Switzerland, and photographer Frank Kretschmann. He still has about two weeks left in his trip so expect more to come from one of the world’s best climbers.

Just before leaving for the US, Alex established the hardest route in Germany’s Frankenjura, Supernova (5.15a/b). He’s also put up the twohardest routes in Australia—R.E.D and Schweinebaumeln (both 5.14d)—and a contender for the country’s hardest boulder problem, Wheelchair(V15). In the US, he’s repeated Lucid Dreaming (V15) and many of the Red River Gorge’s hardest climbs including a flash of Pure Imagination(5.14c). His most impressive climbing achievement to date was hisonsight ascent of Estado Critico at Siurana, Spain—the world’s first 5.14d onsight. 

Font: DPM Article

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