Alexander Megos News!

amegos

Molts ens preguntavem… què estarà fent Alexander Megos tot aquest temps? doncs ha estat de vacances per Espanya i gràcies a una entrevista realitzada per UKC podrem saber tot el que ha planxat.

Desprès d’una setmana per França a la zona de St.Leger i Claret escalant algunes de les vies clàssiques de la zona vaig anar cap Espanya.

Hi ha una tema que m’agradaría destacar sobre les vies clàssiques de França. Són molt dures! He trobat que alguns 8b+ són més difícils que altres 8c+ que he fet per Espanya…No vill did que els graus siguió fàcils aEspanya, nomès vull remarcar que aquests 8b+ de França són molt durs.  S’han de ver jaque eón boníssims, no importa si el grau que siguin, 8b+ o 8c+.

Aquesta vegada m’he centrat més en Margalef, ja que no tenía molt per fer a Siurana…He estat en total 10 dies a Margalef i desprès he anat cap el Chorro, a escalar al sol.

A Margalef em vaig centrar en els sectors de  “Espadaelles” i “El Laboratori”. Tinc la sensació que aquest viatge ha sigut, “el viatge del 2nd Go” ja que vaig fer moltes vies al segon intent. Aqui us deixo amb la llista de vies que vaig fer.

– Speed Baby 8b+ (2. Go)
– 24 Hours Party People 8c (2. Go)
– Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies 8c (3. Go)
– Pal Norte 8c+ (2. Go)
– Pal Oeste 8c+ (2. Go)
– Pal Este 8c (1. Go)
– Super Vixens 8b+/c (2. Go)
– Cocaina pura y dura 8b+/c (2. Go)
– Bumaye 8c+ (2. Go)
– La Ley Innata 8c+/9a (2. Go)

Vaig tenir un día molt bó el 2 de tener, en que vaig fer “Bumaye” i la  “La Ley Innata” les dues al segon intent tot i que era el meu 6º dia seguit escalant.

Hi ha una altar via que vaig encadenar, que em va costar 4 intents. La via es dii “La Bongada” i era un projecte que estava de 8c+/9a. Ramon Julian va fer la primera ascenció i va proposer 8c…Jo l’he repetit i definitivament proposo 9a. No té res de 8c…simplement Ramon està mass fort. Quan la compares amb els altres 8c+ del mateix sector, és un 9a dur. Però a mi em va semblar més com a un 9a normal.

I fins aqui la meva estança a Margalef, vaig agafar un avio de Barcelona a Malaga on ens esperva un temps càlid perfecte.

Durant l’estança per Malaga vem visitar la cova de Chilam Balam 2 dies, desafortunadament no portavem guia i escalavem les vies que ens semblaven atractives. Uns dies desprès ens vem adonar de la dificultat de les vies que habiem encadenat:

– La Rubia 8c+ (2. Go)
– Garbo 8c (2. Go) (this is the first pitch of Adam Ondras “Planta de Shiva”)
– ????? 8c (onsight)

També vull destacar que vaig fer el meu primer 8c a vista, encara que haguès fet 9a a vista i 8c+ al flash, no comptava amb aquest grau encadenat a vista, però no conec el nom de la via que vaig fer… Definitivament hi ha moltes vies per fer en aquesta cova, i segur que vindrem una altra vegada.

A continuació podeu veure el video de la primera ascenció a “WheelChair” a Australia.

After a one-week stay in France in the areas “St. Leger” and “Claret” to climb some of the old school classics the trip brought us to Spain!

There is still one thing I want to mention about the old school classics in these two areas in France. They are f***ing hard! There where some 8b+ which felt harder than some of the 8c+ I did afterwards in Spain… I don’t want to say, that there are holiday grades in Spain, I just wanted to say that there are some pretty hard 8b+ in some old school areas. And they are worth to be climbed, because they are really good! No matter if hard for the grade or not…

Back to Spain. This time I had my focus more on Margalef, as there was not too much left in Siurana. But anyway we just had around 10 days in Margalef, because afterwards we had booked one week El Chorro, climbing in the sun.
The main focus in Margalef were the sectors “Espadelles” and “El Laboratori”. I kind of have the feeling that this trip was the “2. Go-trip”, because I did a lot of the hard routes on my second attempt. Here some of the ascents in Margalef:

– Speed Baby 8b+ (2. Go)
– 24 Hours Party People 8c (2. Go)
– Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies 8c (3. Go)
– Pal Norte 8c+ (2. Go)
– Pal Oeste 8c+ (2. Go)
– Pal Este 8c (1. Go)
– Super Vixens 8b+/c (2. Go)
– Cocaina pura y dura 8b+/c (2. Go)
– Bumaye 8c+ (2. Go)
– La Ley Innata 8c+/9a (2. Go)

I had a pretty good day on the 2nd of January, where I did “Bumaye” and “La Ley Innata” both second try within one hour, although it was already my 6th climbing day in a row…

And there is another route I climbed, which took me 4 tries. The route is called “La Bongada” and when it was a project they thought it might be around 8c+/9a. Then Ramon [Julian Puigblanque] made the first ascent of it calling it 8c… I repeated it and would definitely suggest 9a. It has nothing to do with 8c, Ramon might be just too strong ;-). When you compare it to some of the 8c+ in the same sector, it is a hard 9a. But for me it felt like a normal 9a.

The time was over quite fast, so after 10 days we took the plane from Barcelona to Malaga, to enjoy one week of warm weather in El Chorro.

During our stay in El Chorro we also checked out the “Chilam Balam Cave” for 2 days. Unfortunately we didn’t have a guidebook so we just tried what looked nice. That was a funny game. Some days later we found out, how hard some of the routes were, which we climbed over there:

– La Rubia 8c+ (2. Go)
– Garbo 8c (2. Go) (this is the first pitch of Adam Ondras “Planta de Shiva”)
– ????? 8c (onsight)

 

I also did one 8c onsight, which actually is my first 8c onsight ever [although he has onsighted 9a and flashed 8c+ already]. Unfortunately I couldn’t find out the name of the route…

But there is still a lot to do, so there will be definitely going another trip to this cave!
Video FA of ‘Wheelchair’, 8C (+) in Australia.

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