Video: Boulder in Tenerife – Guntram Joerg


Localització: Illes Canàries.

Tenerife és un indret reconegut per l’escalada espotiva, però quan parlem de boulder ja no en coneixem quasibé res. Gu amb el seu equip han fet un viatge per visitar la zona i fer moltes primeres ascencions que habien estat classificades com inescalables, 8a’s…8a+…i fins i tot 8b+!

Location: the Canaries. 

Tenerife being an awesome spot for rope climbing is well known. With Bouldering we are talking about a lot of uncertainty. Doing his homework of preparation and planning GU (Guntram Joerg) quickly realized that this island had already rejected the brave ascent attempts of many strong guys and girls.

It was only after short scouting-session with Walter Gollner – THE austrian-stranded-in-tenerife-local that GU realized that there still was loads of potential to crush. GU got to work and it was only a fews days that the first hits on his ticklist – some of them boulder problems that had been classified unclimbable. Among others: Me Media Naranja (8a+), La Guancha (8a+) und A Lion´s Doupt (8a).

News of GU crushing hard spread quickly on the island and more and more boulderers came by watching. Again it was Walter Goller  who had the definite test-piece for him: the island’s king line which he had found over the years of inspecting nearly every single block on the Canary Islands.

Ninja – a boulder looking pretty straightforward at first but getting closer this beast quickly became a complex puzzle of delicate, demanding moves. It took GU more than three days to just figure out the necessary sequences. Finally – late on day 4 – GU was able to link the single moves into the First Ascent of Ninja, cautiously suggesting this Canary King Line at 8b+.

Exhausted and with worn out fingertips GU started wondering if he might be indeed carrying the Ninja Spirit inside – maybe having even ancestors from land of the rising sun. Walter Goller looked at it a bit more pragmatically: the king is dead, long live the king. El rey ha muerto, ¡viva el rey!
And he took off starting looking for an new king line.


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