Adam Ondra Interview

adam iron curtain 9bAdam Ondra. Iron Curtain 9b. Flatanger Cave

Us presentem una petita entrevista a Adam Ondra realitzada per Henning Wang a Noruega, durant la seva estada a Fatanger.

De les vies que has equipat aquest estiu, quines són les teves preferides i perquè?

Berntsenbanden extension (8a) –una roca increible, escales fins a dalt de tot de la cova i unes vistes impressionants . Move (9b/b+) -La part final és simplement impressionant. No em podia creure que hi hagin les preses justes per fer-la escalable. Iron Curtain (9b) – un 7a impressionant per començar i es va endurint fins a trobar el crux a dalt de tot. Dharma (8c+) –la línia de la cova. 65 metres de roca perfecte, on nomès vaig tenir que tallar una branca i raspallar algun canto. Art of Flight (8c+/9a) –la primera part és un projecte equipat per l’americà Friend Elliot Ashe a la part dreta de la cova. Qui la provi es sorpendrà… quan agafes les seves preses un no sap si està somiant o es real.

Quins son els teus plans d’ara i pel futur?

He començat a estudiar, el que m’obliga a estar a la meva zona. Intentaré encadenar algún projecte per allà, fer un parell de viatges i preparar-me per la temporada vinent que serà dedicada a les competicions.

Tornaràs a Noruea? Quan?

Hauria de tornar la propera temporada per fer un break a la temporada de competicions. però el 2015 estaré tot l’estiu a la cova de Flatanger. Hi han masses projectes, com a mínim hi tinc 4 que deuen rondar el 9b+ o 9c. Tindré que entrenar per fer-los crec.

Quines son les vies que has encadenat aquest estiu?

Ronja (7c), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, -.05.2013

Berntsenbanden extension (8a), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 18.05.2013

The Doorkeeper (8b), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 23.05.2013

Dharma (8c+), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 25.05.2013

Illusionist (9a), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 27.05.2013

Purgatory (9a, hard), Hell, 21.07.2013

Nagells Drømmedieder extension (8b), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 01.08.2013

Iron Curtain (9b), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 03.08.2013

The Trap (8c+), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 13.08.2013

Move (9b/+), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 20.08.2013

Art of Flight (8c+/9a), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 10.09.2013

Kangaroo´s Limb (9a+), Hanshallaren, Flatanger 21.09.2013

Hell Racer (9a+), Hell, 22.09.2013

A short interview to Adam Ondra by Henning Wang, in Flatanger – Norway.

– Of the routes you put up in Norway this summer, what were your favorite five routes, and why?

Berntsenbanden extension (8a) – incredible rock, crack climbing and laybacking all the way to ledge with favorite and never-boring view. Move (9b/b+) – the last part is simply amazing. I can’t believe there are just enough holds to make it climbable. Iron Curtain (9b) – amazing 7a to start with, and fullpackage climbing to the top with low-percentage crux. Dharma (8c+) – the line of the cave. 65 meters of amazing rock, where I had to chop down one single flake and some holds had to be brushed. Art of Flight (8c+/9a) – first part is an amazing project bolted by american friend Elliot Ashe on the right side of the cave. Everybody is going to overwhelmed by its features. When you grab those holds, you don’t know whether you are dreaming or if it is true. The direct line will be around 8c, whereas I went left make some spicy moves on the very end.

– What are your plans now and for the foreseeable future? 

– I have started studying, so my plan is to get down one project in my home climbing area, make a couple of short trips and get ready for the next season, which is going to be all about the comps!

– Will you return to Norway?And in that case when?

– I might return next year for short break to clean up my mind in the comp season, but in 2015 I will spend the whole summer in Flatanger again. Too many projects left behind, at least four projects waiting to be completed, ranging from 9b+ to 9c. I will have to train a bit I guess.

Her er Ondras førstebestigninger fra i sommer:

Ronja (7c), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, -.05.2013

Berntsenbanden extension (8a), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 18.05.2013

The Doorkeeper (8b), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 23.05.2013

Dharma (8c+), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 25.05.2013

Illusionist (9a), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 27.05.2013

Purgatory (9a, hard), Hell, 21.07.2013

Nagells Drømmedieder extension (8b), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 01.08.2013

Iron Curtain (9b), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 03.08.2013

The Trap (8c+), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 13.08.2013

Move (9b/+), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 20.08.2013

Art of Flight (8c+/9a), Hanshallaren, Flatanger, 10.09.2013

Kangaroo´s Limb (9a+), Hanshallaren, Flatanger 21.09.2013

Hell Racer (9a+), Hell, 22.09.2013

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