Boulder Summer Rotpunkts

A continuació una petita crònica dels encadenaments més destacats en boulder d’aquest estiu:

Niccolò Ceria

L’Italià Niccolò Ceria ha estat 5 setmanes escalant a Rocklands i ha tornat amb una llista d’encadenaments impressionant. Alguns dels seus encadenaments els ha suggerit de V13 (8b) o V14 (8b+) ja que molts dels graus a Rocklands s’estàn discutint. A continuació la llista i el video:

V14/8b+: Golden Shadow V13/8b: Mooiste Meisie, El Corazon, The Power of One, The Vice, Derailed, King of LimbsV12/8a+: Seveso, Oral Office, Sitting in a Corner with Depression, Black Shadow, Madiba, and Sky (which was originally suggested as V14)

Italian Niccolò Ceria spent five weeks in Rocklands this summer and came away with an impressive ticklist. He sent a number of hard problems that, for purposes of reporting, I’ve taken to just calling “V13 or V14” since the difficulty of many problems in Rocklands are being disputed. Some of Niccolò’s hardest sends, with his suggested grades.

Ashima Shiraishi

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L’escaladora Ashima Shiraishi de 12 anys ha encadenat Automator v13 (8b) a Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.Aquesta és la 2ª ascenció femenina a aquest problema desprès de Angie Payne el 2010 i la més jove a fer-ho fins ara. El va escalar amb 2 sessions.

Colorado ha sigut l’ultima parada del seu viatge aquest estiu desprès de passar per Céüse, France on va encadenar 2 5.14b i moltes altres vies. Desprès va anar a Magic Wood, Switzerland on va encadenar One Summer In Paradise (V13) i també varis V11’s i V12’s. El seu primer bopulder de V13 va serCrown of Aragorn in Hueco Tanks amb tan sols 10 anys convertint-se en la persona més jove en assolir aquest nivell. L’any següent va viatjar a South Africa i va fer Steady Plums Direct in Cape Town and Fragile Steps in Rocklands.

Hi ha alguna altra escaladora que hagi encadenat 5 V13?

12-year-old Ashima Shiraishi has climbed Automator (V13) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. This is the 2nd female ascent after Angie Payne in 2010 and the youngest to date. She was able to complete the problem in just two sessions.

Colorado is the last stop on Ashima’s summer climbing tour which started with a trip to Céüse, France where she climbed two 5.14b’s and many more hard routes. She then went to Magic Wood, Switzerland for some bouldering where she sent One Summer In Paradise (V13) as well as some V11’s and V12’s. This was Ashima’s fifth V13 boulder problem. Her first was Crown of Aragorn in Hueco Tanks which she climbed at the age of 10, becoming the youngest person to tick the grade. The following year she traveled to South Africa and sent Steady Plums Direct in Cape Town and Fragile Steps in Rocklands.

Has any other female climbed five or more V13’s? Please leave a comment if I’m mistaken, but, at the age of 12, she may already be the record holder. 

Daniel Woods

Finalment Daniel Woods realitza la 9ª repetició de Weel of Life, un boulder/via establerta per Dai Koyamada’s a Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia.

Daniel Woods has done the 9th ascent of Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia.  On his 8a scorecard he suggests a route grade of 5.14d and says that this problem is, “in my top 3 roof/adventure climbs that I have done”.  Woods is now on his way to Salt Lake City where he will compete this week in the Psicobloc deep water soloing comp.

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