L’escalador Japonès Sachi Amma, va estar escalant la setmana passada per Horai (Japó), on va fer “Spectator”, 9a, l’última via que li quedava del sector…ja que aquest mateix any va encadenar al mateix sector “Ganja extension” 8b+ a vista, convertint-se en la via de més dificultat encadenada a vista al Japó i també va fer “Meta Force extension” 8c+ que podrem veure a continuació en video.
Ben aviat començaran les proves de la Copa del món de dificultat i sembla que Sachi ja s’està ficant en forma…serà un gran adeversari pels altres competidors.
Sachi Amma completes all hard routes in Horai (Japan) by sending Spectator (9a) this weekend. Just a few days earlier, he climbs Meta Force Extension (8c+), onsights Ganja Extension (8b+) and breaks Yuji Hirayama’s record for hardest onsight on Japanese soil.
“There are many routes in Horai that I hope to try and send.” Sachi’s goal at the beginning of the year was to send all of the hard routes in Horai in one season. Since going on his first trip in May, Sachi has accomplished this mission by sending his final project, Spectator (9a), after onsighting Ganja Ext (8b+) and sending Meta Force Ext (8b+) in only three efforts.
Meta Force Ext moves through an almost flat roof for about eight metres on slopers and small edges. Pulling through the lip is quite difficult and where the crux is located. “At the lip you must lunge from an undercling to a sloper pocket and then swing and take another sloper. This sequence is very bouldery and you need luck to do that move.” Sachi continues, “Then you move through the easy face for five metres to a good rest. The final small roof at the top has a beautiful dyno from a small crimp to a jug. It is really far to make this move and I was at full extension on this move.” The final moves are on an easy slab to a walk off with a wonderful view of the Horai valley that surrounds you.
Spectator moves through the same roof. It links up with Meta Force Ext and has the same finish through the upper dyno.
Ganja Ext is located in the same roof, also on slopers and small edges. Ganja is the lower part of this route that is rated 8b. Both Ganja and the Extension were bolted and first sent by Dai Koyamada. After Ganja’s anchor, the extension moves through strenuous slopers to an easier finish. “Before I climbed Ganja Ext I thought it looked very hard, but after sending it I think that it is not that hard of moves.”
Horai is one of the most famous climbing areas in Japan. Originally, Horai had been known for its aid climbing, but in recent years has become famous again for the hard routes put up by Japanese strongman, Dai Koyamada. There are many hard routes in Horai, and this area is one of only a few places in Japan where there are so many routes on steep faces and roofs.
Now that Sachi has completed this final task it is time to follow the cooler temps and travel to Hokkaido where Sachi hopes to find and complete more of Japan’s hardest test pieces.